Arcade Blog
Monday, October 10, 2016
Monday, November 29, 2010
Sunday, October 24, 2010
DK Paint
It is a semi-gloss
this is the Sherwin Williams paint code for DK
BAC Colorant 02 32 64 128
W1-WHITE 8 3 1 1
G2-NEW GREEN - 26 1 -
L1-BLUE 2 23 - -
R3-MAGENTA - 10 - 1
this is the Sherwin Williams paint code for DK
BAC Colorant 02 32 64 128
W1-WHITE 8 3 1 1
G2-NEW GREEN - 26 1 -
L1-BLUE 2 23 - -
R3-MAGENTA - 10 - 1
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Thanks!
I ALWAYS use Zinnser's BIN primer. It is shellac based primer. I don't think HD or Lows has it, but I know that Sears Hardware does.
I roll at least 2 light coats, again with a foam roller, and hand sand between coats. USE LIGHT COATS!
I hand sand after the last coat to get things nice and smooth, then roll on my color. I do one side at a time rolling ALL in the same direction the distance of the cab to prevent roller marks. If done right, they almost have a textured laminate look to them....Not smooth like the original finish, BUT, nice non the less!
I ALWAYS use Zinnser's BIN primer. It is shellac based primer. I don't think HD or Lows has it, but I know that Sears Hardware does.
I roll at least 2 light coats, again with a foam roller, and hand sand between coats. USE LIGHT COATS!
I hand sand after the last coat to get things nice and smooth, then roll on my color. I do one side at a time rolling ALL in the same direction the distance of the cab to prevent roller marks. If done right, they almost have a textured laminate look to them....Not smooth like the original finish, BUT, nice non the less!
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Star Wars Woes
I've run through the test mode, cleaned up the BIP page, re-aligned the X/Y, and followed the instructions for setting the RGB/Bias for the coloring. It seems that at the 1/4 of the bottom only during the Title Screen it gets blurry at the bottom. It also will completely freak out on scenes that have very bright effects, (Hit by the Ties, or the exploding Death Star). It seems to go out of focus and overscan badly. This unit has an Amplifone and already has the WinTron transformer installed before I got it. Is this a simple cap kit replacement that is needed?
Also the bottom corner seems to need degaussing and I know I have some work to do on the convergence.
Video Example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-64_sOqRQ0&hd=1
Pictures Attached. '
Also the bottom corner seems to need degaussing and I know I have some work to do on the convergence.
Video Example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-64_sOqRQ0&hd=1
Pictures Attached. '
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Star Wars Notes
Depending on which CRT is in the game, there are 2, a standard res and
a med. res. If it is the standard res, then the only diff would be
there would be no more burn hole. The med res tube is marked M48AAWOOX
and has a much better display
amp
---------
19vltp22
19vnjp22
M48AAW00X _______________.
http://www.junknet.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=121&Itemid=121
I helped Jason Milsom put together a 25" monitor years ago out of a tube
he salvaged from a 25" TV set, and a WG 6100 yoke and chassis. We didn't
have any extra Amplifone boards at the time and he had a 6100 with a
broken tube so that's what he used. It worked well, looked good,
convergence was not perfect in the corners but TV tubes tend to be lower
grade than those made specifically for monitors.
We also came across a WG 6100 that had a 90 degree Amplifone 19" tube
stuck in it, fit sorta ok, looked funny but it worked fine, had the
Amplifone 19" yoke of course.
I've lit up a multitude of old TV tubes using a spare Amplifone yoke and
chassis, some of them would converge nicely, others, particularly newer
sizes like 20", and odd tubes with flatter screens and whatnot wouldn't,
but even early 90s nearly flat face CRTs work surprisingly well aside
from mounting.
This is not rocket science, CRTs are almost all very similar
electrically, and there are only a few standard deflection angles out
there. So long as the neck pinout is compatible with the chassis, and
the yoke will fit on the neck, the tube will work, and usually it's not
too hard to get the convergence dialed in.
a med. res. If it is the standard res, then the only diff would be
there would be no more burn hole. The med res tube is marked M48AAWOOX
and has a much better display
amp
---------
19vltp22
19vnjp22
M48AAW00X _______________.
http://www.junknet.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=121&Itemid=121
I helped Jason Milsom put together a 25" monitor years ago out of a tube
he salvaged from a 25" TV set, and a WG 6100 yoke and chassis. We didn't
have any extra Amplifone boards at the time and he had a 6100 with a
broken tube so that's what he used. It worked well, looked good,
convergence was not perfect in the corners but TV tubes tend to be lower
grade than those made specifically for monitors.
We also came across a WG 6100 that had a 90 degree Amplifone 19" tube
stuck in it, fit sorta ok, looked funny but it worked fine, had the
Amplifone 19" yoke of course.
I've lit up a multitude of old TV tubes using a spare Amplifone yoke and
chassis, some of them would converge nicely, others, particularly newer
sizes like 20", and odd tubes with flatter screens and whatnot wouldn't,
but even early 90s nearly flat face CRTs work surprisingly well aside
from mounting.
This is not rocket science, CRTs are almost all very similar
electrically, and there are only a few standard deflection angles out
there. So long as the neck pinout is compatible with the chassis, and
the yoke will fit on the neck, the tube will work, and usually it's not
too hard to get the convergence dialed in.
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Sunday, October 03, 2010
Saturday, October 02, 2010
Friday, October 01, 2010
Thursday, September 30, 2010
DK restore
Nintendo 9/16" WHITE T-molding **Brand New** 20 ft.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-9-16-WHITE-T-molding-Brand-New-20-ft-/360128690611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53d957b9b3
http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=30&cat=5&page=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-9-16-WHITE-T-molding-Brand-New-20-ft-/360128690611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53d957b9b3
http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=30&cat=5&page=1
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Hiding Windows
this info is in the wiki under the Hiding Windows section.
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hiding_Windows
here is how to get rid of the shutting down messages:
Getting rid of the "Loading settings" Popup screens
The following will hide the dialog box that appears that the beggining of Windows startup informing you that the system is "Loading Settings".
To do this,follow these steps:
Go to, Start Menu -> Run and enter regedit
Navigate to entry:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>Software>Microsoft>Windows>CurrentVersion>Policies>System
If there is an entry for "DisableStatusMessages" set it to 1 (the digit one)
If there is no entry, right-mouse click the "System" word, and select New->DWORD value, and enter "DisableStatusMessages", right-mouse to edit the value of it, and enter 1 (the digit one).
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hiding_Windows
here is how to get rid of the shutting down messages:
Getting rid of the "Loading settings" Popup screens
The following will hide the dialog box that appears that the beggining of Windows startup informing you that the system is "Loading Settings".
To do this,follow these steps:
Go to, Start Menu -> Run and enter regedit
Navigate to entry:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>Software>Microsoft>Windows>CurrentVersion>Policies>System
If there is an entry for "DisableStatusMessages" set it to 1 (the digit one)
If there is no entry, right-mouse click the "System" word, and select New->DWORD value, and enter "DisableStatusMessages", right-mouse to edit the value of it, and enter 1 (the digit one).
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Vector discussion
Spectacular! It's too bad you will not be able to run AAE in this. AAE has no joystick input, so any yoke game will not work. I moved my AAE rig next to my Major Havoc/Macmame rig the other day and I discovered that Macmame was BRIGHTER than AAE. If I were to mame this and I couldn't get a ZVG (lotsa luck there!), I would go with Macmame .56a running in OS 9, the vectors are the brightest in my experience but you will have to compromise by using a mac and all it's drawbacks. SW, ESB and ROTJ will all work in macmame os 9, Topgunner will only run in Macmame OS X.
The only reason I can see to run AAE is for some of the vector effects (like light around asteroid shots). In Mame, you can adjust Beam, resolution, flicker until you get it looking just like the game you played in your youth. It would be nice if Mame incorporated some of the vector monitor "artifacts" (if they do and I don't know about them please tell me). I do recommend using your maximum screen resolution as well. For starwars, I use -beam 1.75 -flicker .25 and -resolution 1680x1050 and then it looks like the starwars machine that my poor index fingers and thumbs used to get sooo tired and sore from...
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